21/11/2019: Early morning climb

Up before dawn

We all woke up at 4am this morning, ready for our early morning climb! The 3 of us quietly got all our gear on, and met Vlad outside of our room. After we had grouped, we departed for the beginning of the mountain path, which was on the other side of the river. It was a small path, easy to miss, but was signposted. The path basically began in someone’s back garden. Our early morning climb took us around an hour or so to reach the peak.

The climb mostly consisted of a jungle-like environment, with regards to the plants, trees, and dirt path. It was pitch black, so thankfully Vlad and Mischa came prepared with head torches. This was a god send, because there were plenty of spider webs at head height in the path! Despite being chilly, I sure got a sweat on, and had to take my coat off. As we completed our early morning climb, it was still pitch black at the peak of this mountain.

Waiting for dawn

Slowly but surely, the black night sky succumbed to the early light of dawn. The sight was truly breath taking, even though the light was dim. Not far below us, there was a thick blanket of cloud, which made us seem like we were on cloud nine. It was awesome to see the different mountains poking their heads above the clouds. On the horizon, we could see the silhouette of a mountain, of which the Sun was behind. We waited around in the cold morning air for a couple of hours, slowly watching the night transform to day.

Little by little, the day began to come into fruition, and we all eagerly awaited for the moment the Sun poked its head over the mountain. When it did, everyone at the top (around 4 others) were just stood in silence, embracing this fantastic atmosphere. After the Sun had risen, we began to make our descent down the mountain path which we saw in a different light. We didn’t know, but there’s a small charge for using the path, only several thousand kip. Initially we disputed it, thinking it was a scam, but then we saw a sign and immediately paid the fee.

Back in town

When we were back in town, we went to a place that Vlad had recommended. I went for shakshuka, it’s a dish made with eggs and a tomato sauce, with other seasonings, and it was absolutely gorgeous. Would definitely recommend it! Once we were done, we returned to our hostel, indulged a warm shower, and had a cheeky nap. Later on, Jannis offered us a lift to Luang Prabang with him and his friends. They had all met recently, and chipped in to purchase a tuk tuk. I thought it was bonkers but brilliant at the same time. It was a tough ask of the tuk tuk to carry 9 of us, and we somehow managed to fit 7 in the back, only just though. There was absolutely no room for manoeuvring my legs, but it was just funny as hell.

Having recovered and rested from our early morning climb, we were off! It was rather sketchy, and I had my reservations if we would make it at all. This was solidified all the more when we tried to drive up a hill and the tuk tuk stalled. We all had to hop out of the back and push it whilst they tried to start it up front. It was one hell of an adventure, that’s for sure! After around 25km, the drive shaft fell off the bottom of the tuk tuk (a very important part). So there was no more tuk tuk for now.

Improvising

After we’d broken down, we realised we weren’t so far from the next town. In fact, we only had to push the tuk tuk around 500 metres, before we parked it in the town on a patch of dry dirt. Jannis went to check for a mechanic, I can only imagine what the residents thought. A 6 foot 3 lanky German, topless, shirt around his head, wielding a large metal pole, running through the town…I know I’d turn tail and run haha! He was gone for about an hour and a half, in which time we got to know the others better, as well as Mat and I going for a walk into town to see if we could see him. Everyone seemed wacky, but proper sound at the same time. In total, there were 5 of the tuk tuk group: Jannis, Juli, Meera, Gisa, and Will. I think that’s how you spell them anyway.

Jannis eventually came back with news that there was a mechanic further down town. So we all began pushing the tuk tuk again, this time for a bit longer than before, in the searing heat. I found it all a big adventure though, even if it was hard work. There was a guesthouse over the other side of the road; this was a small town so there weren’t a lot of options. It was called the Keosavang Guesthouse, it was modest but good for the location. We picked our rooms, dumped our gears, and headed nearby for some food. I had a lovely soup with noodles, and a very cheery old lady who owned the place!

Here's to new friends

Everyone headed back to the hostel (others picked up some beers) and the evening onwards was just one big party. We started off in a circle, playing music, drinking beer (not for me though), and playing games. The best game was called Ninja Go, everyone strikes a pose, you go around in a circle taking turns trying to hit each other’s hands. If both hands are hit, you’re out for the round. It sounds very simple, which it is, but it was so much fun. As the day went on, and everyone got more drunk, we all started dancing like crazy men, it was brilliant. Everyone got on so well, it was just a night of enjoyment and carefree happiness.

At some point, we even had a little Lao girl join in with the dancing, the owner’s daughter I believe. She was timid at first, but Mischa and the others were very friendly and welcoming. I imagine the others would be viewed by society as crazy hippies, but they’re the nicest people you could meet, and they wouldn’t judge you one bit. It wasn’t a terribly late night. After having consumed the local liquor, Lao Lao, which is extremely potent, Mat had an early night on the bathroom floor. Being the good friend I am, I went back and made sure he made it to the next morning. I turned in soon after, with our early morning climb, it had been a long day!

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Picture of Joe Mayo

Joe Mayo

Joe has a hunger for travel and a passion for adventure, and has set out to share his journey with others to inspire and help them on their way.

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